Since her unceremonious dumping in 2013 from her first label, Willow, by majority owner the Apparel Group, Podgornik has bounced back with brio. From sourcing organic cottons to buttons made in Cambodia from spent bullet cases, every aspect of the label has been designed with positive impact in mind — and the buyers have indeed come. While she won’t divulge the numbers, Podgornik says the response has been “really embracing”. “Sales have far exceeded expectations — and we had very high expectations,” she says, laughing.

The focus now is mainly on Australian retailers (“If you don’t get your home market right you don’t have a business”), although international online retailer Moda Operandi is on board.

The lookbook (pictured) highlights a collection including languid pieces in silks and cottons, as well as Podgornik’s sharp tailoring and signature jackets, with design details such as her favourite corsetry and fringing. The accessories are particularly impressive, including knee-high gladiator sandals in a number of leathers and jewellery that uses materials such as reclaimed water buffalo horn.

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Sustainable fashion has had a fairly bad rap in the higher fashion realm and frankly with good reason, given the lack of design integrity in much of what has been on offer. But KitX is a design-driven brand that just happens to work with sustainable suppliers.

“The product will sell because the customer loves to wear it and it feels good and it’s at the right price and fits beautifully,” Podgornik says. “The added benefit is that it’s having a positive impact ... some will care, others won’t. It’s more about the responsibility of the designer to come up with solutions and look at things differently to make a better world. I’m not preaching but I have a very strong belief that this is the future.”

Local heroes

On the subject of things sustainable and ethical, as part of the Next 20 seminar series during the 20th Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Australia (just over a week away, egad), fashion industry body Clean Cut will be presenting Future Talks, sponsored by Ethical Clothing Australia. Podgornik will be on the panel (in video form — she will be overseas), as will Ben Esakoff of Nobody Denim and Kate Bielenberg, retail brand manager for Cue.

Bielenberg told Buzz she was excited to be part of the ongoing discussion: “The seminar aims to highlight the benefits of a sustainable future and a commitment to Australian fashion. As a family-owned business, keeping Cue Australian designed and predominantly Australian made is core to our brand identity. Staying local keeps jobs onshore, and as the largest manufacturer of women’s fashion in Australia it’s a commitment we’re proud to uphold.”

Open Dior

Stylish cinephiles should catch the doco Dior and I while it’s in cinemas. It was mentioned in this column during the Sydney Film Festival last year, but now with its wide release Buzz caught a repeat viewing last week, and its impact hadn’t lessened. Following designer Raf Simons from his introduction to the ateliers in 2012 to his first haute couture collection eight weeks later, it’s a fascinating insight into the cloistered world of haute couture, past and present. Dior and I screens nationally until at least April 16.

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